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Technical Info

Falling Trunk Lids

The simple fix for seemingly "weak" trunklid springs involves simply removing and switching the two torsion bars. The operation is very simple, requires no special tools or know-how, and is very effective. 30 minutes or less to complete. Cost for new parts: $0
All you need is a broom stick to hold the trunk open and a large screw driver to lever the torsion bars out of their linkages. I suggest also using "vise-grip" type pliers that allow you to hold and turn the spring in one motion, making it very easy to maintain the tension while fitting the bar through the holes. Wearing heavy gloves, just in case, may also be wise. You may also need a small screwdriver, to release the little plastic clip in the center of the torsion springs that keeps them from flopping around.
Take off the springs and the torque (torsion) rods. Lay the torque rods on the trunk floor exactly as they came off. Noticed the ends on each rod are offset. Turn each rod end over end and install them on the opposite side from where they were. (i.e. right to left and left to right. This gives each rod about 1/4 turn more torque). Now the lid works like it's supposed to, and will swing open too fast if you're not careful. NOTE: These rods are under a great deal of tension and can be dangerous, possibly causing injury if you don't know what you're doing.
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Towing an X-90

Can an X-90 be towed behind a motorhome without modifications?
2wd or 4wd? This will make a difference in how you tow it.
For a manual transmission 2wd; put the tranny in neutral and go. A manual transmission 4WD; put shifter in 2nd gear and the transfer case in Neutral. You will need to change the automatic front hubs to manual hubs and have them unlocked.
An automatic transmission 2WD really needs to be put on a trailer. An automatic 4WD; put the transmission in park and the transfer case in neutral. Also, the front hubs should be switched over to manual locking type hubs and be unlocked.
The safest thing to do when towing a 4WD model, would be to disconnect the driveshafts from the differential at each end (4 bolts hold them together), and secure the shafts up so they do not drag. This way the engine, transmission, and transfer case have no influence on the axle rotation. Be sure your differential fluid level is correct so the gears move freely. Do not tow the 2wd model with the driveshaft disconnected. Reason is that the splash lube for the transmission occurs when the lower shaft spins, throwing oil around inside the case. On this model the lower shaft goes to the engine not the rear wheels as on most cars. So when towing the upper shaft is spinning but not being luricated.
In all cases, to allow the front wheels to turn, put the key in the ignition, turn it on then off. Leave it in the off position without taking it out. The steering will remain unlocked.
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Stuck in Park

There is an access cover on the console on the drivers side...oval in shape...remove the cover to access a small lever which releases the shift mechanism - push it back and move shifter out of park. Sometimes the shift release cord can get stretched which prevents it from shifting out of park. Then it needs to be adjusted or replaced.
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Windows slow to move

Clean the window tracks and spray with silicone lube. Usually spraying some lube will bring it back to life.
(Use silicon spray on rail NOT grease)
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How to disable the air bags

1. Turn the steering wheel so the front wheels are in the straight ahead postion.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position and remove the key.
3. Remove the AIR BAG fuse from the air-bag fuse box (Under the dash - dangling near the steering column).
4. Remove the steering wheel side cap and disengage the yellow connector inside the inflator module housing (unplug the wire).
5. Remove the glove box by disengaging both glove box stoppers from each side, then unplug the yellow passenger air bag inflator module connector (unplug the wire).
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Is My Gas Gauge Correct?

The X-90 has an 11 gallon tank. The fuel gauge will read empty at 9 gallons with a 2 gallon reserve.
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Adding Coil Spacers for more lift

For about 1.75" of lift, Daystar recommends their Jeep #KJ09100 spacers (for TJ's F+R, Cherokee F, and GrandCherokees F+R) to be used with some 'minor' trimming. You'll need 2 sets (4 spacers). The inner hole is only 2.125" in diameter and needs to be 2.5" to fit on the X-90. A simple hole-cutting bit for your drill works great. On the rear you only need to drill it down about 1.25" into the spacer and cut out the excess. This allows the lip to remain for the coil to ride in. On the front, you'll need to drill completely thru the spacer, then use the factory spacer (which is about .25" thick, black rubber) to give you that lip so the coil doesn't clank against the housing. (I also trimmed .25" off the spacer to achieve an even lift with the addition of the factory piece. You could use the factory spacers on both front and rear, without cutting anything off, for a total of 2" lift if desired.)
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Engine dies / Stalling

Problem: My 96 X90 five speed will just die when I come to a stop or just push the clutch in . Most of the time it will idle great at 800 rpm's, other times it will idle down to 200 rpm's and then die. (or)
After changing the spark plugs (with the proper gap), my X idles really low when first started and often stalls until the engine reaches proper temperature. It is fine after it is warmed up. I adujusted the the timing to 5 degrees like my engine sticker says but still have this problem.

If you follow the long silver part of the intake manifold towards the firewall, you'll notice a little rubber black plug. Under this is the idle air control (air flow control). Turn it out (counter-clockwise) about 1/2 turn at a time until your problem is gone. This increases the airflow which increases the idle, and then the computer electronically keeps it where it's supposed to be.
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Control Modular/Alarm

I just ordered a remote from the suzuki dealer, but the control modular is bad and the remote cannot be set without a new one. Should my door locks operate off the remote or just the alarm? The remote only has one button.
When the alarm is turned on by the dash board button, the remote locks the doors and sets the alarm at the same time. When you hit it again it turns off the alarm and unlocks the doors. When the alarm on the dash is turned off, the remote just unlocks and locks the doors.

Alarm sensitivity

On my 1996 x90 the alarm (when set) goes off when the door or trunk lid is shut-not when it is opened , if the car is broken in to and the door or trunk is left open... NO ALARM!
Adjust the sensitivity of the system...it's a sensor located on the passenger side firewall. There are two rubber plugs covering phillips screws. The procedure is outlined in the manual.
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Headlights always on...

1. Pull up on the emergency brake a few clicks.. the runnning lights will turn off, but then the brake light comes on. If you adjust your brake with a little play in it, then this won't hurt anything, but you still have a warning light on your dash.
2. On some models, you can simply unplug the DRL module and solve the problem. On mine, when I did this, I lost ALL my lights, so that is not going to work on all models.
Daytime Running Light module (DRL) is located under dashboard above drivers right knee. There is a 9 pin (10/w 1 blank) wire connector leading to it.
3. On '96 models, all you have to do is find the module, just above the drivers right ankle. Mine was a small black box with a connector that had 10 wires to it. Incidently, they did NOT match completely in color code to what Chiltons said they would. However, the black is still ground, red/green is headlights. Simply clip the wire that supplies power to the running lights. It is the black/white striped wire. Viola! no more running lights. And if you want them ..sometimes.. just splice in a switch to that wire to toggle it on or off.
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Getting the Clarion CD player to work

Try setting the radio tuner to 88.3 FM, but it can vary. The modulator is probably behind the glove box, and the changer is in the trunk.

Installing a new radio in your X-90

Tools needed: phillips screwdriver, needle nose plyers, wire strippers, electrical tape or wire connectors. (I found using both a shorty screwdriver and a longer one helped)
To remove the radio, you need to remove the panel that encloses the heater controls, radio and ashtray. To get that off, you need to remove the console that surrounds the shifter levers. To get that section off, you need to remove the section of the console that has the cup holders and brake lever.
First set the parking brake and move both seats foreward. There are two phillips screw on each side near the rear of the console. Remove them, then pull the plastic clips that are at the front of the console section. To remove the clips, simply push the center of it in with a key or blunt-pointed object and then pull out. (They re-install by pulling the center pin out, push in the clip and then press the center piece in to flare out the clip.) The seats will be in the way, so it takes a bit of contortion to get to them.
Next, remove the two phillips screws holding the next section of the console in place (located towards the front of this part on each side) and the two clips (same as before) that are inconveniently located towards the rear, right next to the seat, making it hard to get to it, but do-able. On the auto-tranny models, you'll have to remove the transfer case shift knob (small phillips screw on back side of knob), and unplug the "power/normal" switch (once the console is loose, lift it up and unplug the in-line connector for the switch).
Now you can get to the two plastic clips that are just below the ashtray. Remove them. Pull the ash tray out and remove the metal plate above it (2 screws, one on top, one in back). Pull the heater control knobs off and remove the cover over the levers (Pry gently - it snaps into place). There are two phillips screws that hold the panel in place. Remove them and the cover comes off, revealing the vents, radio, and wiring. Two screws hold the radio in place. Once removed, slide the radio out and unplug the wiring harness and antenna wire.
Your new radio probably came with wiring instructions. Most have common color-coded wiring, so it should be a breeze. There are four speakers - white, grey, purple, and green wires. Be sure to match them up properly. The grounds have the black stripe. Don't cross or unite the grounds. There is a red power wire, a yellow power wire, and a black ground wire. The ground wire does not go to the wiring harness plug. Once connected, be sure to plug the antenna back in, and slide the radio in place. The metal bracket that goes around the radio unit has a rubber plug that slides into a hole in a frame mount at the back to keep the radio stable. Be sure it fits snugly in, then tighten the two screws on the front. I would suggest adding a small washer behind the radio mount frame to push the radio slightly further out to allow the aftermarket faceplate trim to snap on securely.
Turn the accessory key on and make sure everything works properly before re-installing all the parts. Re-attach the panel cover (two screws, two plastic clips). Heater faceplate and knobs (snaps in, push on). Attach ash tray panel (2 screws), slide ashtray in. Install middle console section and cup-holder section in reverse order as removed.
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Some links to a few other good ideas and helpful hints...

Removing Door Panels
Removing Rear Speakers


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